I’ve just about finished my homework for the Chanel Jacket course I’m doing at the Yorkshire School of Sewing. Day one was two weeks ago when basically fittings and toiles were checked and all the layers were cut out and prepared, so all the tweed pieces were interlined with a light weight iron on interfacing and I had just started to quilt the lining pieces…
Chanel jackets traditionally have the lining and the outer fabric quilted together, this is obviously done before any construction so space has to be left for seams etc. I tacked the lining to each piece by hand, I did toy with the idea of using spray baste, but in the end I decided to just quickly hand baste it as I was concerned about the edges getting tacky. I used an old-fashioned ruler to work out my quilting lines as that was just a nice width. This is where I found perhaps my grainlines were not as straight as they could have been! I decided it was probably the underneath piece that was slightly off, with this fabric I don’t think it matters but it would be worth remembering for a more distinctive pattern.
The quilting lines were all stopped about 1.5-2″ above the hem or the seam, it wasn’t always easy to remember to stop!! This evening I need to thread all the loose threads to the inside and loosely tie them off.
Once the pieces were quilted we had to baste the jacket together for the final fitting. I must admit I couldn’t remember if it was to be hand or machine basted, I hand basted the seams as with the loose weave I thought undoing a machine baste would be an awful job! I cut out a size 12 but left a 1″ seam down the sides, so I’ve stitched the side with 1″ at the top but graduating out a bit to allow for my ample hips!
It looks pretty good on Florence, my muse, I’ll add a sleeve this evening then hopefully I’ll be all ready for day two tomorrow.