A couple of weeks ago I mentioned that I wanted a few projects finished before I started more, well this was one of them and whilst it isn’t happy dance time yet I’ve made enough progress to show you it again.
Last October I went on a course with Anne to the Yorkshire School of Sewing. I wanted to make a Chanel jacket. It was a two day course and we were under no illusions that we would complete the jacket in that time. The aim was for us to have done enough to be able to complete the jacket at home. This was Ann and myself after two days, jackets basically put together but with lots to do on the inside! If you want to read my earlier post about how we got this far follow this link.
There’s an awful lot of hand-stitching on a Chanel jacket. The lining is quilted to each piece before the jacket is constructed, so basically the whole lining is hand-stitched in…
After the course I started hand-stitching the lining down but then I got waylaid with other projects and it has been on Florence, my muse, ever since.
After I finished piecing my Down the Rabbit Hole quilt I decided this had to be on my list of things to do next. I started hand-stitching the seams down, there’s an awful lot of seams!! Even the sleeves have two seams each! Gillian (from Yorkshire School of Sewing) had suggested a small sleeve head made frpm wadding, I couldn’t get the sleeve to lie flat for the lining with it in, so in the end I removed them.
After quite a few evenings work I have hemmed it, stitched the neck-facing down and stitched all the linings down. The basic jacket is now complete!
My next problem is the buttonholes. I wanted my jacket to have buttons so I have a proper facing at the front. I marked my buttonholes but I can’t get the thickness of the fabric under the buttonhole foot. I’ve had this problem with the last two coats I’ve made, I can’t decide if it’s a problem with the foot or if it is because the tweeds are a fairly loose weave so the fabric is more easily damaged and caught under the foot. Either way, I couldn’t do it.
In the end I decided to see if someone else could do it. We have a lady in Otley who I’ve heard very good reports of, she does alterations and repairs. I popped in to see her this morning to ask if she could do my button holes. She’s snowed under with work at the moment (she was buried under a wedding dress skirt when I arrived!) so it will be mid May before she has chance to do it. I’ve left a reel of thread and a button and even the pattern piece with the spacings on, just in case my pins come out!
Once it returns I’ve got all the titivating to do. I’ll make a final decision on false welt pockets, stitch braid around the edges, chain inside the hem to give weight to the jacket and help it to hang well, maybe buttons up a false sleeve placket too. I haven’t quite decided on the buttons yet, fancy black or plain burgundy. The pink and red cord might be couched inside next to the lining edge, maybe!
Anne finished hers ages ago, have a look to see her version here, she’s much more patient than me and worked hard to get a beautifully finished jacket.
I think I’ll just be happy to have a finished, wearable jacket ๐
Wow! What a lot of detail work! This jacket will be beautiful when finished! I don’t believe I have the patience to do this! Good for you!
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Thanks Laura, I don’t think I have the patience to do another one ๐
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It’s a perfect fit ๐ You’re so talented!
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Thanks Avis, I did have a tutor there to help with the fitting ๐
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Amazing, what an undertaking – you will be able to wear in proudly! ๐
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Thank you
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I love those black buttons, so my vote goes to them. False pockets annoy me, so thumbs down for those, but I think that burgundy braid would look great. You’re so close to completion!
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Black buttons are my favourite too I think, I will wait til after I’ve put the braid on to decide about pockets as to whether the front is too plain…realistically I think I will have had enough by the time I’ve hand-stitched the braid and the chain on and call it a day ๐
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It’s beautifully tailored, Margaret. I’m envious of you having a Chanel jacket. They’re the kinds of jackets that look formal with a dress or skirt and deliciously informal with jeans. I’m not a garment maker but my mother was and she used to make me up Vogue Couturier patterns which had 20,000 pieces, so I know the effort and angst you have gone through. Well done!
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Thank you Prue, I’m pleased with it so far.
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Most of this reads like Greek to me but I understood enough to be impressed!
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Thank you ๐
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It looks wonderful, and will be a stunning jacket to wear! Great progress.
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Thanks Carole, I’m nearly there!
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Wow. So many steps! Its looking great though and I hope the lady can do the buttonhole without any problems for you.
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Thank you, I hope she can do the buttonholes too, it was a bit nerve-wracking leaving it ๐
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A beautifully created jacket. The hand stitches are so perfect I thought them all machine stitched. The garment looks wonderful on you. Love the tweed, colour and black buttons.
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It’s looking good. I wondered what had happened since I saw it. Yes, I finished mine but I didn’t have difficult button holes to do. I hope they work out well then you can have some fun. I actually included my trim in the construction of the jacket – it’s stitched in between the layers like piping.
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